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Technical Resources >> How-To-Guides >> Eliminating “Rotten-Egg” (Hydrogen Sulfide) Odors in Well Water Systems (Page 2)
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Figure 3 Chlorine Injection by Metering Pump & Holding/Contact Tank
2.4 Removal of Odors by Filtration
Hydrogen sulfide gas odors can be removed by filtration but results vary, and usually filtration alone is not effective. The reasons for this are that typically, odors and hydrogen sulfide gas are the result of bacterial action. Often the odors can be removed at point of entry to the home or business, and then develop again in the piping system and water heater. It is more effective to use filtration after aeration, ozone or chlorine injection for best results.
In some applications, with low levels of hydrogen sulfide gas odors, greensand media filters, regenerated with potassium permanganate are the most effective in removing hydrogen sulfide or rotten egg odors. Activated carbon is less effective and the life of activated carbon media beds are short, and often require frequent replacing.
3.0 Odors Present in Inside Piping Only
If there is a sulfur, or “rotten-egg” odor in the cold water, then you can use shock-chlorination to either temporarily or permanently eliminate the odor. Shock-chlorination will kill the bacteria in the cold water lines and loosen up scale and slime that may have developed in the piping. If the odor is only in the hot water, go to Section 3 to see instructions on chlorinating and servicing the water heater.
Unless you are familiar with your plumbing system and handling chlorine you should not attempt to chlorinate your own piping. This should only be attempted by a licensed water treatment professional or plumber.
3.1 There are two methods of filling a household or other piping system with a chlorine solution:
Method 1: Use a standard centrifugal pump, sump pump or other pump and pump in a 80 to 100 ppm chlorine solution into a household piping system that is de-pressurized, filling the pipes up with the chlorine solution. This involves shutting the water pressure off from the street, and draining the household pipes and then pumping in a solution of chlorine from a clean, new plastic trashcan or other clean container. The fixtures and faucets are opened and the solution is pumped until the chlorine solution is present in all the fixtures, including the water heater and hot water lines. To chlorinate a home that is 2 stories or less, use a pump that can develop at least 20 psi at 5 gallons per minute. After a chlorine residual of 50 to 100 ppm is detected at each faucet or fixture (using a high-range chlorine test kit, not a pool or hot tub test kit) the chlorine solution is allowed to remain in the pipes for 12 to 24 hours.
Method 2: Use a high-pressure metering pump. Professional water treatment specialists and distribution system operators would use this method. This involves leaving the water system under pressure and using a high pressure, low-volume metering pump to inject a concentrated chlorine solution under pressure, while the water is running in the house. After a chlorine residual of 50 to 100 ppm is detected at each faucet or fixture (using a high-range chlorine test kit, not a pool or hot tub test kit) the chlorine solution is allowed to remain in the pipes for 12 to 24 hours. This method saves time and is as effective as Method 1.
3.2 Method 1 – Shock chlorination of piping systems by injecting a 100 ppm chlorine solution using a centrifugal, sump pump or other pump:
1. Shut off the main line coming in to the house.
2. Identify an outside hose bib or other opening in the incoming piping. If no hose bib or opening exists, install a ½” threaded opening and a hose bib into the main line to use for injecting the chlorine solution. Open up several of the faucets or taps in the house and drain the water from the household piping.
3. Hook up pump using garden hose or other hoses to the main line.
4. Mix 1 ounce of household bleach or ½ ounces of pool chlorine (12% sodium hypochlorite) for every 4 gallons of water in a clean trashcan or other plastic container. This will create a 98 ppm chlorine solution (or approximately 100 ppm). The amount of solution needed will vary depending on the size of the piping, but typically there is approximately 100 to 300 gallons of water in most home piping systems
5. Run the water in the house until the bleach solution has filled all the pipes and a strong odor of chlorine is coming from the fixtures or faucets, both hot and cold.
Create a 100 ppm chlorine solution:
Household bleach is 5% chlorine (sodium hypochlorite)
5% = 50,000 parts per million (“PPM”)
1 gallon = 128 fluid ounces 4 gallons = 512 oz.
1 oz @ 50,000 pm
512 oz.
= 98 ppm
Add 1 oz bleach for every 4 gallons water OR
Add 4 oz (1/2 cup) for every 16 gallons water OR
Add 8 oz (1 cup) for 32 gallons of water.
6. Allow the water to sit for 12 hours.
7. Retest for chlorine residual.
8. If the water contains less than 10 ppm of chlorine, repeat entire procedure. The slime, scale, and odor-producing bacteria will interact with the chlorine and reduce the amount of chlorine residual in the piping. If it uses up all the chlorine, or the chlorine residual is less than 10 ppm, then the procedure may need to be repeated.
9. Flush the piping and fixtures well to flush out scale and colored from water from the piping. Unscrew aerators and fixtures to avoid these items becoming plugged with sediment that may have been loosened in the chlorination process.
Caution: this will often loosen up scale, iron deposits and other materials in the piping, which can clog fixtures, appliances and valves in the piping system, causing a lot of problems. Care should be taken when flushing the piping, and all aerators removed to prevent clogging. In some extreme cases of corroded piping, the piping could fail and start to leak after this procedure.
If you are on septic tank: in most cases, it won’t harm the septic tank to flush 50 to 100 ppm of chlorine residual into it, on a one-time basis, with the water from a household piping system. If you want to be extra certain, after chlorination, you can add in some “septic tank starter” or beneficial bacterial material, down the toilet and establish beneficial bacteria in the septic tank. This can be purchased at any hardware store.
3.3 Method 2: Shock chlorination of piping systems using a high-pressure metering pump without draining the piping first:
1. Shut off the main line coming in to the house. Identify an outside hose bib or other opening in the incoming piping. If no hose bib or opening exists, install a ½” threaded opening into the main line to use for injecting the chlorine solution. Open up several of the faucets or taps in the house and drain the water from the household piping.
Typical metering pumps with adjustable speed and pump stroke adjusting knobs. These adjusting knobs make it easy to meter in 10% to 100% of pump output and adjust output of pump for various applications.
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